Marine Parts

The exhaust manifold is a critical component of your boat’s engine, directing exhaust gases away from the engine and expelling them safely through the exhaust system. Over time, wear and tear can cause the manifold to crack, corrode, or develop leaks, leading to decreased engine performance and potential long-term damage. In this article, we’ll explore the common causes of exhaust manifold damage and guide you through the proper steps for replacing them to ensure your engine operates smoothly and efficiently.

1. Corrosion from Saltwater Exposure

• One of the most common causes of exhaust manifold failure in marine engines is corrosion, particularly when the boat is used in saltwater environments. Saltwater is highly corrosive and can cause the manifold’s metal to degrade over time, especially if the cooling system is not functioning correctly or if proper maintenance is neglected.
• Corrosion typically starts inside the manifold where the water and exhaust gases mix, leading to rust and eventual thinning of the metal walls. If left untreated, this can result in leaks and cracks, which reduce the manifold’s ability to direct exhaust gases properly.
• Preventing corrosion requires regular flushing of the engine with fresh water, especially after boating in saltwater, and using corrosion-resistant materials or coatings on the manifold.

2. Freezing Water During the Winter

• If water is left inside the exhaust manifold during freezing temperatures, it can expand as it turns to ice, exerting pressure on the internal surfaces and causing cracks or fractures. This often occurs when the boat isn’t properly winterized or if the cooling system isn’t fully drained before storage. Even a small amount of residual water can freeze and damage the manifold.
• The problem is particularly common in regions with harsh winters, where sudden temperature drops can catch boat owners off guard. Cracked manifolds from freezing can lead to coolant leaks and engine overheating, as the exhaust gases are no longer being properly routed.
• Proper winterization, including draining or using antifreeze in the cooling system, is the best defense against freeze-related damage. Make sure the manifold and cooling passages are completely drained before storing the boat.

3. Extreme Heat and Thermal Cycling

• The exhaust manifold endures extreme temperatures during engine operation, as it handles hot exhaust gases expelled from the engine’s combustion chambers. Over time, repeated heating and cooling cycles can cause the metal to expand and contract, leading to stress fractures and cracks.
• Thermal stress is particularly problematic if the engine frequently shifts between high and low operating temperatures, such as during stop-and-go usage. If the manifold is made from lower-grade materials, it’s more susceptible to heat-related damage.
• Proper engine maintenance, including ensuring the cooling system is working effectively and using high-quality manifolds designed for marine applications, can help minimize thermal cycling damage.

4. Blocked or Restricted

As a boat owner, one of the most common maintenance tasks you'll encounter is replacing worn-out or cracked bellows and hoses. These rubber components are crucial for connecting rigid piping and allowing movement, as well as for various fluid transfer applications on your boat. Over time, exposure to heat, sunlight, and the harsh marine environment can cause these parts to deteriorate, leading to potential leaks or failures.

For any boat owner, understanding the importance of anodes is crucial in ensuring the longevity and safety of your vessel. Anodes, often referred to as sacrificial anodes, play a vital role in protecting your boat from the destructive forces of galvanic corrosion. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of DIY anode maintenance and inspection, equipping you with the knowledge and skills needed to keep your boat in prime condition.

Learn why anodes are so important for protecting your boat, and why you should be checking and replacing them often.

If you've got a smaller boat - say, under 20 feet long - chances are you experience a lot of difficulty getting that boat up to plane.  Especially for boats with smaller horsepower engines, it can take a lot of running the engine at full power to get the boat on plane.  Also, smaller boats tend to experience a lot of the bouncing or "porpoising" that makes a ride uncomfortable.  Both of these problems can be solved with one easy solution and provide a much smoother ride and a better overall boating experience.

Trim Tabs Explained

Trim tabs are simple devices mounted to the transom of boats to make the ride smoother and to help the boat get on plane quicker.  The traditional trim tabs are hydraulic and use hydraulic fluid to power the actuators that control

Cleaning the decks after a fun day on the water is exactly what the washdown pump was designed for. Whether you’re blasting away fish debris, mud from your anchor, spilled drinks, or bird droppings you need a washdown system that is equipped to get the job done in a flash.

PSI and GPM

PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) and GPM (Gallons Per Minute) are both equally important when choosing a washdown system. PSI refers to the amount of pressure and GPM refers to the flow. The level of pressure (PSI) directly affects the system’s ability to strip dirt and grime from a surface and Flow (GPM) refers to the rinsing power or the system’s ability to carry the dirt away once stripped. Cleaning Units (CU) is the result of multiplying the PSI by the GPM…calculating and comparing the cleaning units will allow you to compare one unit to another.

As an example, a washdown system rated at